Health Care and Socialization
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This is a thumbnail sketch of general getting-started information, as well as
helping you decide if this is the right breed for you. You can add to your
knowledge by visiting shows (visit websites such as USACTC, AACDT, ACC,
etc… for schedules), and purchasing breed books.
Know what questions to ask potential breeders from whom you are considering
getting a puppy. When you select a puppy, remember, you are contracting the
breeder with whom you will have continuing support and relationship after the
sale.
DISCLAIMER: The following is strictly my breeding program, opinions and established
experiences gathered through associations with other Coton breeders, as well as
through years of experience being a groomer and breeder of other breeds of dogs. This
dialog is not to be taken as the only source of your quest for answers.
I. SOCIALIZATION
Your choice from the litter whose characteristics will fit your lifestyle, will create
a relationship that will last a life time for both of you. The personality of the
Coton de Tulear requires human companionship; the breed does not do well left
alone for long periods of time. Avoid kenneling or crating for long periods time
except for travel or house training. Keep a radio or TV on for human companionship at a reasonable sound level;
gentle, like PBS or spiritual/classical - calming music. This breed is not suited to live as an outdoor dog. They will
bark if left unattended and allowed to get bored. Lives very well with other animals for companions.
“Raise with Praise”. Meet the puppy on his/her level. Spend floor time. Whatever favorable response the puppy
gives you such as returning when you call his name, praise profusely. If you choose to reinforce with treats, use
natural raw or freeze dried. The Coton is a great runner (agility), walker, licker, loves people, parks, riding in the car
and shopping carts, shopping centers, etc. Take him everywhere. He is not “designed” to live isolated in your
house 24 hours a day. Mine love visiting hospitals, nursing homes, and rehab centers. The Coton is not known to
be selective; he loves children, the elderly and other dogs and cats equally; chases lizards too.
II. HEALTH CARE
1. Medical:
There are medical requirements for owners who are breeders. Code of Ethics breeders must meet certain testing
standards of the parent dogs in order for the puppies to be registered through their clubs. These requirements can
be found on individual websites, i.e. USACTC, AACDT, ACC….etc. Non-COE breeders are not required to complete
these tests; that does not mean their puppies aren’t equally healthy. It means expenses are not passed on to you.
Depending upon whether you are seeking a pet/companion, breedable, or show quality dog, be prepared to ask
your potential breeder those medical issues that are the most important to you, i.e. eyes, thyroid, skin conditions,
bone structure, liver or heart issues, etc. Cotons are a lucky breed in that they do not have genetically run-of-the
mill specific medical problems. Like any dog, a Coton can pop up with an isolated condition at any
age. You should notify the breeder immediately so the parents can be checked. Read the
guarantee terms of your sales contract.
Be aware of your state’s requirements for vaccinations, and follow through on your Vet’s
recommendations; some Vet‘s require 3 sets of puppy shots and some require 4 sets to
complete a parvo series, depending upon where you live and the puppy‘s age. You will
receive a health record of everything that has been administered to your puppy since birth at the time of sale.
If you are purchasing a pet/companion quality or adopting a rescue, you will be required to sign a spay/neuter
agreement prior to sale. You will not receive registration papers on your puppy till he/she is neutered/spayed.
2. Feeding:
You will receive feeding instructions from your breeder. You can ask your breeder questions like:
How long did the puppy nurse on the mother dog? How much did the puppy weigh when it was
born? At what age was the puppy switched over to its current diet? These issues are important
to you as proper feeding affects the growth and development of the liver, bones and muscles.
Like a human baby, a puppy’s liver develops in stages to be able to process the food you are
“sending down”, and it can’t handle speeding up this process. Listen to your breeder, and do not
speed up the types of food necessary for proper growth and development, because you have
another dog in the house on a different diet. If you cut corners, you could be facing Vet bills that
are not the responsibility of the breeder. Any vomiting or diarrhea will be your first warning signs.
More advanced diet: I recommend a subscription to The Whole Dog Journal: www:the-whole-dog-journal.com.
Twice a year they publish information on the best quality holistic kibble and canned dog food. Breeders prepare
diets to give your puppy a healthy start for its future.
Teeth will tell you a lot - watch them. About age 10 months if you still have double canines/double incisors, contact
your Vet and get these extra baby teeth pulled out so the adult teeth can grow in properly. Carbohydrates and
grains in your dog’s diet will cause tarter build up and painful gums. I recommend learning about feeding a raw food
diet with bones. Even as a supplement to kibble, raw food is closer to a dog’s natural diet. Feed a variety of beef
hearts, the whole chicken, turkey, pork that is not smoked, if your dog has no medical sensitivities. Raw food and
bones work wonders at keeping your dog’s teeth clean. Add carrots, the stump of the broccoli you won’t eat is a
great chew toy, and some sweet potatoes.
AVOID grapes, onions, raisins as these are kidney killers, along with cabbage and turnips. Keep up with the no-no’s
through The Whole Dog Journal and your Vet as well as through your breeder. Freeze dried liver treats are great
training tools. Keep some in your pocket.
YOU PAID A LOT OF MONEY FOR YOUR PUPPY - FEED HIM WELL FOR HIS HEALTH!
III. GROOMING
Puppies are cute, but what happens when all that hair grows? How often do I have to go to the groomer? How
many knots will I have to comb out? Does it get dirty, and how often do I have to bathe my puppy to keep him clean
and white?
1. Using a Groomer:
Be aware that most groomers are not familiar with the Coton breed. You will have to tell them what you want the
dog to look like. If you decide the long full coat does not fit your life style, if you spend a lot of time at the beach, you
may want a shorter coat. The most common hair cut patterns for the Coton are styles cut similar to a Shih-Tzu,
Lasa, or Bichon. A very comfortable attractive coat length is 2-3 inches, usually achieved by cutting by hand. One
plus for you is once cut, the coat grows back slowly. Plan your haircuts seasonally, and you should only visit the
groomer 2 or 3 times a year.
2. Do Your Own Grooming:
This long coated, non-shedding companion is easier to care for than you think. You will
receive great satisfaction from doing your own grooming. Each time you care for your
best friend, you gain experience and tons of compliments from admirers.
A. Keep it simple: you do not need a lot of equipment. Start with a good slicker brush and pin brush
without knobs on the ends, 2-3 combs with different teeth widths including a flea comb, a blow dryer. I use nail
clippers for birds as they are small and not intimidating, and a couple pair of good scissors such as 5 ½ and 7 ½
inches. Your dog does not need chemicals and smelling shampoos - use a simple no more tears - works great. You
are ready to start. A bath once a month, and a good brushing/combing all the way to the skin once a week is about
all you will need.
B. Your breeder will give you your best advice. The specialty clubs, USACTC, AACDT, ACC, etc., publish
magazine articles that include pet and show quality grooming. Visit dog shows. Trim the hair off the bottom of the
pads. Use the flea comb to clean the corners of the eyes. Clean the ears. Take as much care of your 4 footed
partner as you do of yourself
C. About 9-12 months of age the soft cottony puppy coat will clash with the new adult coat coming in,
creating knots along this line. Consider cutting out the whispy/downy puppy coat at this time and letting the adult
coat to come through rich and soft.



